Jiro Dreams of Sushi - The Chef as Tortured Artist

Movie: Jiro Dreams of Sushi
My Rating: 4 stars

This is one of the most fascinating documentaries I’ve ever seen—and especially so because it’s about an experience that I’d really like to have, but most likely never will. This film is about Japan’s most famous, if not the best, sushi chef. Jiro Ono creates an amazing experience for his guests, with the freshest ingredients, classic recipes, and an inherent understanding of food. The restaurant, Sukiyabashi Jiro, has three Michelin stars, and winning a seat is a goal coveted by chefs and foodies from all over the world. It’s not easy to snag one. Seats run somewhere around $400 a head. And, if that isn’t a sufficient barrier to entry, slots book up as soon as they become available. But, the most remarkable phenomenon about this establishment is that this world famous restaurant is located in one of the tunnels in the Ginza subway station—a very humble location. And, since the proper way to eat sushi is to pop it into your mouth as soon as the chef hands it to you, a diner’s experience there may last only twenty minutes. That’s pretty crazy. Even though an experience like that would probably be pretty amazing, I don’t think I’d want to spend that much money for so little time. Oh well. Maybe when I become filthy rich.

But, this movie isn’t just about catching a glimpse into the lifestyle of people wealthy enough not to notice the cost of dining at a place like this. And, while this film does tell the story of one particular chef, Jiro, I think it’s really more about the more abstract concept of a high end chef. Not many chefs have the personal constitution to do this kind of work. It’s such a labor intensive and perfectionist pursuit. And, much of that labor is put into tiny details that most people probably wouldn’t even notice. There’s no such thing as “good enough” with this kind of person. It’s really a kind of mania or OCD that seems to define the careers artists like this. And, that probably explains why there are so few “super chefs” out there. Oh sure, there are plenty of fine dining establishments and very expensive restaurants out there. But, how often do you come across a Thomas Keller? Or a Jiro Ono? It’s very enlightening to listen to Jiro talk about his daily routine, and about all the kitchen staff he burns through is search of just one person who can make rice to his exacting specifications and who is willing to stay. And, these interviews really emphasize how this kind of work really has to be its own reward, because it won’t be coming from elsewhere. It’s not like the money is all that amazing. And, very few customers actually notice or appreciate all the craftsmanship that goes into this kind of cooking. The film was actually a little depressing in that way. Watching all that effort go unacknowledged kind of made me just want to give up on everything.

This is a fantastic documentary and everyone should really go out and watch it right away. It’s fascinating to watch an artist at work. And, it’s very interesting to get to know Jiro as a person too. I think just about everyone will find something to enjoy about this movie.